Matsuyama

Akiyama Brothers Birthplace

秋山兄弟生誕地 Akiyama Kyōdai Seitanchi

Born to a lower class branch of the Matsuyama samurai clan, these two brothers became military heroes of Japan. Yoshifuru, the eldest, is credited as the father of the Japanese cavalry, while Saneyuki excelled in naval tactics. Yoshifuru traveled to France to study cavalry techniques in 1887. After serving in the Sino-Japanese War (1894-1895) he established a cavalry division which debuted in the Russo-Japanese War (1904-1905). After holding numerous posts of prestige, he was promoted to General in 1916 and finally retired to become a junior high school principal in Matsuyama. A childhood friend of Shiki, Saneyuki shared his friend's love of the written word, and the two studied literature at Tokyo University. However, at the behest of his brother, Saneyuki embarked on a military career. He was sent to America to study naval tactics, and had on-the-job training during the Spanish-American War (1898). After returning to Japan, he became the foremost strategist of the Russo-Japanese War, leading to a major victory at the battle of Tsushima.

Tue-Sun 10:00-17:00, closed 28 Dec-3 Jan·¥200

Bansuiso

萬翠荘

This French-style building was constructed in 1922 for the former lord of Matsuyama Castle, Hisamatsu Sadakoto (久松定謨). After having lived and studied in France, Hisamatsu became enamored with the romantic architectural style, and hired Kigo Shichirō (木子七郎) to build his villa. This Taishō Era estate was the venue of many parties for the elite in its heyday, and the Emperor made it a point to visit whenever he was in the area. It is boused as an annex of the Museum of Art. The first floor's gallery changes throughout the year and is free, while the collection on the second floor showcases ink paintings by Shiki, Sōseki, and other Ehime residents.

Tue-Sun 09:40-18:00, closed 29 Dec-5 Jan·¥100 adults, ¥50 children

Botchan Gizmo Clock

坊っちゃんカラクリ時計

Admirers of the aforementioned Botchan may enjoy watching the Gizmo Clock beside Dōgo Onsen Station at the mouth of the shopping arcade when it chimes every hour and half hour. Botchan Karakuri Tokei was completed in 1994 to commemorate the 100th year of the last reconstruction of Dōgo Bathhouse, and the animatronics that emerge during the musical interlude depict special scenes from the novel.

Chimes between 08:00-21:00·Free

Dōgo Onsen Honkan

道後温泉本館

Grab your towel and go bathing! Dōgo Onsen is the oldest and most famous onsen in Japan, with a history stretching back over 3,000 years. Quite a few legends surround these waters. One says that the springs of Dōgo were discovered when, during the age of the gods, a heron placed his injured leg into hot water streaming out of a rock and was miraculously healed. Another claims that when an ill god bathed in the hot spring, the god recovered and danced for joy. The heron motif is everywhere inside the building. Tama no ishi or Yudama, the round rock from which the healing waters sprang, is the source of the symbol for Dōgo, though it looks more like a chestnut to some. There are two types of baths in the honkan for both men and women.; In January 2019, renovation works started on the Dogo Onsen Honkan during which the bath house is closed partially over the period of seven years. During the first of two phases of the renovation works, two small baths on the first floor remain open to visitors (one for each gender), while the rest of the building, including the rest areas on the second and third floors, gets closed. Some parts of the building will be covered up by scaffolding; however, some of the building's sides (the front and north sides during the first phase of the renovations) will intentionally be kept free of scaffolding to reduce the impact on tourism.

Dōgo Park & Yuzuki Castle Ruins

道後公園・湯築城

From mid-March through April, the typically peaceful Dōgo Park is overwhelmed by inebriated locals and hawking vendors who come to take part in the most ancient of activities, hanami, or viewing of sakura (cherry blossoms). An oval shaped patch of green in the overdeveloped Dōgo neighborhood, Dōgo Kōen is an important part of Matsuyama's identity because it harbors the ruins of Yuzuki Castle. Yuzuki-jō was the residence of the Kōno Clan (河野), who ruled Iyo Province (伊予, now Ehime) from the 13th to the late 16th century, when war lord Toyotomi Hideyoshi (豊臣秀吉) sent an army to Shikoku to conquer and unify Japan. The excavation of the 30,000-m² site took over 14 years, but the castle, gardens, and residences were all recovered. Within the recreated homes, mannequins silently act out the daily lives of the elite during that time, drinking tea and writing renga (poems composed by a group). There is also a library and a volunteer English-speaking guide can show visitors around with advance reservations.

Dōgo Park: 24 hours, Yuzuki Castle Ruins: Tue-Sun 09:00-17:00, closed 29 Dec-3 Jan·Free

Ehime Children's Castle

えひめこどもの城 Kodomo no Jō

This vast playground (350,000 m²) consists of five play zones with slides, roller coasters and even workshops for cooking and crafts. Great for families and couples.

Tue-Sun 09:00-17:00, closed Dec 29-Jan 1·¥300 adults, ¥100 children

Enmyōji

円明寺

#53. Also built in the 8th century, the dō style of this temple was rebuilt in 1633.

Free

Isaniwa Shrine

伊佐爾波神社 Isaniwa Jinja

Sitting upon Dōgo Hill and accessible by car or climbing 135 stone steps, this important cultural asset is one of three great examples of Shinto Hachiman-zukuri (God of War) architecture in Japan. It was promised by the lord of Matsuyama Castle, Matsudaira Sadanaga (松平定長), if the gods awarded him victory in the 1667 Edo Castle Yabusame (horseback archery) competition. The outer walls are modeled after the Iwashimizu Hachiman Shrine in Kyoto, while the inner sanctum (the oldest part of the shrine) is designed in various Shinto styles of the 17th century. Memorials honoring the warlords who fought against the Kamakura battalion are guarded by stalwart dogs who watch over the four deities adorning the four corners of the vermilion structure. There are exhibitions of feudal era armor (including Matsudaira's helmet) and swords (Tachi Mei, a mid-Kamakura era piece crafted by the famous Kuniyuki Rai).

24 hours·Free

Ishiteji

石手寺

#51. This is one of the most impressive of the 88 temples in the pilgrimage, housing a variety of statues, haiku stones, and treasures scattered about the grounds. Some of its more interesting aspects are the Deva Hall with its murals of gods, the belfry, and the giant stone statue of Kōbō Daishi — whose head, if you can touch it, will absolve you of making the entire pilgrimage. Founded in 728 and part of the Shingon Sect of Buddhism, Ishiteji embodies one of the most moving of Buddhist legends of greed, sorrow, repentance, and reincarnation. Smoke from the incense of pilgrims making their prayers fill the inner sanctum. Ishiteji celebrates the New Year like no other temple in Matsuyama.

24 hours·Free

Iyo Kasuri Folk Craft Museum

伊予かすり会館

Learn about the process of making Iyo's signature cloth and then create some of your own. Reservations necessary.

Closed · opens 8:10 am·¥50 adults, ¥40 children

Jōruriji

浄瑠璃寺

#46. Created in 708, this temple houses one of Gyoki's Yakushinyorai statue, the first of its kind and the guardian of knowledge and art.

Free

Kōshinan Historic Park

庚申庵史跡庭園

This small teahouse was built in 1790 as a gift to Kobayashi Issa (小林一茶) by his friend Kurita Chodō (栗田樗堂), from one poet to another. The design was inspired by Matsuo Bashō's idyllic hut and the name comes from the sexagenary cycle of the year. It has been restored to its former beauty. When the fujidana wisteria are in bloom, Kōshinan Shiseki Teien is truly a sight to behold. It is free to tour, but reserving the rooms is also possible.

Thu-Tue 10:00-18:00·Free

Matsuyama Castle

松山城

Situated on the 130-m-tall Katsuyama Hill in the center of the city, this sprawling fortress is one of three remaining multi-wing, flat hilltop Japanese castles. It was constructed by the feudal lord Katō Yoshiaki (加藤嘉明) over the course of 25 years, completed in 1627. Four of its eight strategic gates are designated national cultural treasures, and with the wealth of historical artifacts within its majestic walls — swords and armor belonging to the three occupying families, calligraphy and official documents from the feudal era (English available) — Matsuyama-jō is well worth the hike. The castle is accessible by hiking a wooded trail, but the ropeway (¥500 roundtrip) can be boarded at the east entrance.

09:00-17:00, closed 29 Dec·¥500 adults, ¥150 children

Matsuyama Central Park

松山総合公園

Curiously styled as a European fortress wall and atop a hill high enough to parallel the castle, Matsuyama Sōgō Kōen provides a panoramic view of Matsuyama and features a playground for children.

24 hours·Free

Matsuyama Putt Golf

パットゴルフ松山コース

A family-friendly mini-golf course just outside of Matsuyama. Managed by a Canadian expat and his wife.

Mon-Fri 12:30-20:00, Sat Sun 10:00-20:30·¥1000 (3 games)

Museum of Art, Ehime

愛媛県美術館

Ehimeken Bijutsukan is a surprisingly discreet 10,300-m² facility in Shiroyama Park (at the base of the castle and surrounded by a moat) and houses a permanent collection from Ehime natives such as Takubo Kyōji (mixed media sculptor) and Oki Kangaku (ink painter) as well as temporary exhibits from all over the globe. There is a rental gallery where Ehime residents can display their pieces, along with free workshops, a library, and a café.

Tue-Sun 09:40-18:00, closed Dec 29-Jan 3·¥300 adults, ¥200 students

Ninomaru Historical Garden

二ノ丸史跡庭園

Located southwest of the castle on the hillside, Ninomaru Shiseki Teien is another excellent point for viewing the city. The ruins of the Matsuyama Clan estate are preserved and celebrated in a romantic mixture of contemporary fountain designs and ancient garden aesthetics. Viewable from the castle's donjon, mystical Takigi Nō (nocturnal plays by bonfire) performances take place here throughout the year, and families enjoy picnics in its quiet serenity. Many cultural events (tea ceremonies, doll exhibitions, drum performances, etc.) are hosted here.

Closed · opens 9 am·¥100 adults, ¥50 children

Russian Soldiers' Cemetery

ロシヤ人墓地

During the Russo-Japanese War, a number of Russian soldiers ended up in prison camps in Matsuyama. Not viewed as criminals but rather as warriors who loved another nation, these prisoners are said to have had a relatively easy life here. To this day, volunteers of the community respectfully tend to their tombs, which are in the center of a sacred circle of temples and shrines.

24 hours·Free

Sairinji

西林寺

#48. Kōbō Daishi (弘法大師) struck the ground with his stick and created a pond here; his 11-headed Kannon also stands here.

Free

Saka no Ue no Kumo Museum

坂の上の雲ミュージアム

The name means "The Cloud Over an Upward Slope", and refers to the title of a book written by Shiba Ryōtarō (司馬 遼太郎) depicting the struggles Japanese people encountered as they rebuilt their country after the Meiji Revolution and the conflict with Russia. This impressive building, designed by well-known architect Ando Tadao (安藤忠雄), tells the stories of the aforementioned Akiyama Brothers and Masaoka Shiki. The ¥400 admission may be a little steep for non-Japanese readers as there is absolutely no English inside, but the Meiji Karakuri Theatre (moving 'stick' figures) is quite entertaining.

Tue-Sun 09:40-18:00, closed first Tue each month and Dec 29-Jan 3·¥400 adults, ¥200 students

Shiki Commemorative Museum

子規記念博物館

Located in the Dōgo area, the Shiki Kinen Hakubutsukan has a large collection of literature, artwork, and special exhibits about the life of Shiki.

Tue-Sun 09:00-17:00·¥400 adults, ¥320 students

Shikidō

子規堂

The main rooms of the house where Shiki spent the first 17 years of his life were replicated and set up in Shōjuji near the center of the city. The desk and artifacts from his childhood are displayed as he would have had them. The facility is complete with literary and artistic works discovered after his death, pictures, and even some monuments dedicated to other renowned haiku poets.

Closed · opens 8:30 am·¥50

Taizanji

太山寺

#52. An 11-headed Kannon and Shitenno god statues reside here.

Free

Tobe Zoo

とべ動物園

It's south of Matsuyama. Tobe Dobutsuen is the destination for viewing over 190 species of animals, particularly "Peace" the polar bear. Though more spacious than its previous grounds and the silhouette animal footprints leading to the entrance are endearing, the zoo may leave much to be desired for those not used to Japanese zoological standards.

Tue-Sun 09:00-17:00, closed Dec 29-Jan 1·¥300 adults, ¥100 children

Yasakaji

八坂寺

#47. Built in 701, this temple has the first Amida Nyorai deity statue.

Free

Zazen Meditation

坐禅

Zazen, "seated meditation", is a form of Buddhist meditation used to empty the mind and simply exist in the moment. Try it out for some travel stress relief.

Closed · opens 7 am·Free

Animate

アニメイト

There are a few anime shops around the downtown area, but this is the landmark. The others aren't far away on foot — walk a little further into the Gentengai Arcade and Melon Books and Iashinbang will be on your left and up the stairs, or achieve moe at Merry Maid Cafe, on the 5th floor of the appropriately named Waku Bldg.

11:00-19:00, closed first Mon each month

Dog Pillar

ドッグピラー

What canine wouldn't want to try some green tea doggie treats?

Closed · opens 10 am

Dōgo Bakushukan

道後麦酒館

One of the only two restaurants privileged with having Dōgo Beer on the menu, Bakushukan is to the right of Dōgo Onsen Honkan and has a warm, semi-German theme.

Tue-Sun 11:00-22:00·¥1000-2000

Dōgo Brewery

道後ビール水口酒造

Local breweries are a rare find in Japan, so it's no surprise that locals take so much pride in Minakuchi Shuzō. At the end of your complimentary tour of the tiny facility, and after you've tasted each of their signature brands — the crisp Sōseki Stout, hardy Madonna Alt and mild Botchan Kölsch — you can try asking the manager what the secret is to the smooth, clean taste, but you won't get much of an answer. It could be the use of Dōgo's sacred waters or the meticulous hopps roasting technique. Beer is brewed in the spring and summer, while shōchū is made in the fall and winter.

Closed · opens 8:30 am·Free