Dharamsala

17th Karmapa

Dalai Lama's alternative residence

A temporary residence is at the Gyuto Tantric University in the town of Sidhbari near McLeod Ganj.

Bhagsu Waterfall

Has many waterfalls, an ancient temple, numerous slate quarries and a fresh water spring. An easy walk down Bhagsu Rd through the village of the same name, then 1 km up to the waterfall itself. The trail up to the waterfall is stone most of the way and has fencing along steep sections. There are several vendors selling snacks and drinks at the base of the falls. Be careful if you decide to take a bath in the upper pools of the waterfall, as there may be shards of glass in the water, possibly thrown there by the villagers to prevent "indecent" behaviour by Westerners at night. You can also start your walk in Upper Bhagsu, where a second trail remains pretty much at the same altitude towards the waterfall. When you reach the waterfall, a little further up there is Shiva Café, which has a nice little private pool filled with refreshing mountain water and a comfortable picnic area.

Common Ground Café

A non-profit café set up as a meeting place between Chinese and Tibetans that holds many discussions and shows promoting harmony and understanding between the two cultures. Taiwanese and fusion food served in a place to sit and relax with your shoes off on the raised seating area.

Dal Lake

Fairly well signposted. An anticlimactic sacred pond is the colour and texture of its yellow lentil namesake.

Friends Corner Café

Various inexpensive dishes in a shed protected from the rain. Frequented regularly and great variety.

Dal ₹90, Boondi Raita ₹90

Galu Waterfall

Also a nice hike, but first you will have to climb 300 m altitude from Bhagsu to the saddle behind Haini. From there the climbs and descents are not that extreme anymore and along the way there a 3–4 cafés and restaurants. There is a small waterfall at the end with cascades and swimming holes.

HPCA Cricket Stadium

HPCA Cricket Academy

The picturesque Himachal Pradesh Cricket Association Stadium is unique in India as it is situated at an altitude of 1,457 m above the sea level and has the snow-capped Himalayan mountains in the background.

10AM–6PM·₹20

Heena Café

Not particular fancy, but cheapest choice around. Run by two brothers, they have large terrace where you can enjoy watching people walking by to the Galu Waterfall.

Chai ₹20, Parantha ₹50

Indrahar pass

Further up from Triund, this is alpine hiking and you will probably need to book a tour to do it. It passes through the snowbound Dhauladhar Range in the Kangra valley, and ends at Lamu.

JJI Exile Brothers Mom's Kitchen

A cozy little hole-in-the-wall place with 5 tables, a counter and a dog. Owned by three Tibetan musician brothers "JJI Exile Brothers" who give live performances on the premises on Sundays at 7:30PM. Decent Tibetan food, with 5 versions of thukpa and thenthuk each (₹50–80), brown-flour momos (₹50–70, including the rare spinach variety), and several less-well-known Tibetan specialties (such as tingmo (steamed bread) with vegetables, ₹60–70); also vegetable and fruit salads (₹40–60). Desserts include vegan chocolate cake and rum cake with nuts, and several varieties of pancakes (₹40–60), styles of porridge, and fresh juices (₹40–50). Portions tend to be smallish. A bookshelf with some reading materials.

8:30AM–10PM

Jimmy's Italian Kitchen

Nice decor with old, and not-so-old, film posters, unprofessional staff apparently left unsupervised by the owners. Food better than that offered at the other Italian-style places in town, with great salads and acceptable pastas (napolitana, arrabbiata, quattro formaggi, puttanesca) and pizzas.

₹100–130

Kali Yuga BBQ

Some Russian speaking folks are running this restaurant specialising in various meat dishes. It is still cheap compared to Western standards, but most Indians wouldn't be ablt to afford dining here.

₹500 and above

Kareri Lake Trek

Tucked between the greenery all around this glacier lake is the most attractive place for nature lovers.

Lhamo's Croissant

A simple yet stylish cafe, and probably the most underrated place in McLeod. Breakfasts, sandwiches, soups, salads and desserts, coffees and teas. A good selection of vegetarian and vegan dishes. The bread is baked fresh each morning by Lhamo. The second floor has comfortable Japanese style seating on cushions and Tibetan carpets. Fantastic views from the roof top.

Lung-Ta

Excellent Japanese food, pay attention to the daily specials. There is also a small clothing store which sells high-end Tibetan inspired fashions. Non-profit with proceeds going towards assisting former political prisoners and documenting human rights violations.

Mon-Sat noon-11PM, closed Sundays

McLLeo Momos

A bare-bones somewhat dingy but gourmet café prized for its momos. Creative spinoffs on traditional dishes that are not easily to be found even in much bigger establishments. A 12-page bilingual menu in English and Japanese has 9 varieties of them in the vegetarian category (₹50–70 for a plate of 10–12 pieces) and 5 varieties in the non-veg category (₹60–80 for a plate of 3–12 pieces). Tibetan dishes have nine elaborations of the thukpa. Western and Tibetan breakfast includes pancakes, omelettes and muesli dishes. Chinese staples include 7 varieties of chow mein. Tibetan bread comes in giant size.

7:30AM–9:30PM (summer); 8AM-9:30PM (winter)·₹25–80

Moonpeak Espresso

Coffee for ₹40–70, while it is possible to find better coffee in McLeod Ganj this is nevertheless a very pleasant café to visit. All-Tibetan staff and Indian owners. Good, if smallish, sandwiches and several breakfast items. Teas, including herbal; ₹50–60). One of the few places in McLeod Ganj with free and functional Wi-Fi. A notice printed within the menu uncharacteristically enjoins the patron to "please order a few things" if "you are going to sit on the net for a while".

7AM-8PM·₹50–120

Naddi View Point

This is an ideal place for a complete scenic view of snow covered Dhauladhar range. There are manned telescopes (₹10–20) with which you can see the Triund campsite and Guna Devi Mandir. The hike from Dharamkot or Haini is the easiest, because the trail stays pretty much on the same altitude. But Naddi is of course also easily reached by taxi or rickshaw.

Nick's Italian Kitchen

Decent Western fare of lesser quality with some Tibetan dishes. The numerical menu has 194 items. An airy well-lit room and a terrace in the back offers views over the McLeod Ganj Valley and Kangra Valley beyond, similar to those visible from the terraces of the neighbouring Green Restaurant and Peace Coffee House. A limited library of books and a popular noticeboard. The place becomes noisy when crowded.

6AM–9PM·₹30–150

Pema Thang's Guest House

Continental and local styled vegetarian food. Try the fried banana with nuts and the pepperoni pizza. They also serve great thenthuk.

Daily 11AM-10PM

Rakkar

A picturesque hamlet on the outskirts of Lower Dharamsala, perched on the foothills of the snow capped Dhauladhar range of the Himalayas in the Indian state of Himachal Pradesh. Historically inhabited by shepherds of the Gaddi community, the hamlet is slowly attracting visitors who are interested in getting away from the busy tourist hub of McLeod Ganj in favour of having a closer interaction with the locals villagers in a pristine village environment.

Shangri La Restaurant

A good little cafe run by monks and with proceeds going to Gyudmed Monastery. Try the Shangri La Sandwich for breakfast. Meals for dinner also good quality and well priced.

St. John Cathedral in the Wilderness

It's a nice picturesque cathedral in the middle of greenery. 1 km from McLeod Ganj. Auto-rickshaw costs ₹70 as of May 2019. There is no auto stand near the cathedral, so it's a bit tough to get an auto back. If possible, ask the auto driver to wait and then take the same auto to other spots.

Free

Takhyil Peace Café

A down-to-earth (in every sense) and somewhat drab breakfast place, offering egg dishes (₹20–45), porridge (with mixed fruit, ₹65), toast, sandwiches (tofu sandwich, ₹45), several types of bread (₹5–25; extra for peanut butter, jam or honey), and pancakes (₹40–70; mixed-fruit chocolate pancake, ₹70). Tibetan dishes such as thukpa (₹40–70) of uncertain quality and momos (steamed, ₹40–50; fried momos ₹10 extra). Good lassi in several varieties (including unusual ones such as "apple lassi"; ₹20–35).

Tibet Museum

Small but interesting museum on the history of Tibet and its people.

Tue-Sun 9AM-5PM·₹5

Tibetan Institute of Performing Arts

TIPA

Stage performances of traditional Tibetan dance, music, and theatre. The shows are not only infrequently performed.

Tibetan Library

Library of Tibetan Works and Archives

Near the Tibetan government in exile, with a small but interesting museum.

Tin Tin Café

Another budget option, with great chowmein. They have a tiny shed at the point of the marker, but seem to have a small café with nice seats 100 m further up.

Egg Chowmein ₹170

Toral Pass

4,575 m

It begins from Tang Narwana (1,150 m) that is nearly 10 km from Dharamshala.

Triund

If you are in for a brisk walk, climb the hill beyond Dharamkot to Triund ridge. It is one of the most popular treks to go over a weekend trip from Chandigarh and New Delhi, and perhaps the easiest Himalayan trekTl, 6 km and 3 hr (one-way) from Bhagsu or Dharamkot, which are at 1,800–1,900 m. It goes through jungle and is quite a climb, and thousands of trekkers visit come on this trek every year. Triund provides beautiful views of the first peaks of the Himalayas and a wide view over the plains. In December and January this region turns white after snowfall which makes it more attractive for trekkers. As it is at 2,875 m altitude, make sure to wear good shoes, carry water, some food and an extra vest or coat. At the top, even in summer, the weather can change from hot and sunny to cold and cloudy very quickly. Every year some tourists get themselves into serious trouble this way, wearing only sandals and a T-shirt. It seems that the western track is better maintained, so try that one if you are in Dharamkot anyway. If you want to warm up before the Triund trek, try the trek to Guna temple. If you plan to stay overnight at Triund, there is a Forest Rest house (₹500–1000 per night). Take a double bedsheet, but be aware there is no running water or electricity. A torch is a must. If the Forest Rest house is full, then you can hire tents. You can also stay at Snowline tent camp, which is a bit higher up. Ask the staff at Sunset Café for details, they have their contacts.