Tumanyan Khinkali

Khinkali (sturdy soup dumplings, similar to xiao long bao that came to Caucasus over the Silk Road) with meat or cheese filling is the name of the game here. You can have them boiled or fried; they are priced per dumpling, and 6-8 should be enough for an average appetite. If you try using knife and fork, you'll end up with a pool of soup on your plate; grab the dumpling by the bunched top, bite out a notch in the side and slurp in the liquid, then eat the rest (tops are not for eating, and the dough in them may even come out undercooked). Appetizers (soups, salads and a variety of homemade pickles) are delightful too. There are two bronze figures at the entrance welcoming you to step down, and a giddily over-the-top interior in plush and chintz, with televisions playing Armenian music programs of the Soviet era.

Address

Tumanyan 21 (west of Abovyan)

Getting there

next to Mer Tagh (above)

Website

xinkali.am (opens in a new tab)