Taste of Sudan

Wherein South Sudanese food makes its return to Buffalo nearly a half-decade after Taste of Africa & Soul Food's brief sojourn at the West Side Bazaar. It's a cuisine that draws heavily from that of its neighbors: ful medames is an Egyptian import; sambusa come from South Asia by way of the Horn of Africa (Taste of Sudan's are not quite as good as the ones across the counter at Mogadishu, but they're still quite recommendable, with wrappers a bit firmer and flakier and meat that's more coarsely ground); the porridge-like staple asida bears more than a passing resemblance to the fufu consumed in West Africa. But these folks are at their best when working within the "stewed meat over a grain base" template (try lamb molokhia over rice for one of the most authentically South Sudanese specialty on offer). Flavors are vibrant but not off-puttingly fiery, service comes with a smile of genuine appreciation, and portions are generous.

• market

Price

$10-25