La Macarena

Caño Cristales

Is it the River of Seven Colors? Or a more prosaic five? Guides toe the party line du jour of five: black, green, white, yellow, and bold ruby red. The plants (yes, plants, not algae) supply the red or green depending on the time of year, and the rocks and sand fill the whole spectrum. More investigative/imaginative/trifling travelers will find six or seven, though. The walk along/through the river is simply spectacular. With all the interesting rock formations, natural pools, rapids, and waterfalls, it would be a truly beautiful river even without the crazy red plants.

Caño de Piedras

A reasonably short moto-taxi ride out of town, this river has a really popular natural pool with the townsfolk, who more or less all go here on Wednesdays. A nice river to swim in, have a picnic and hang out without spending a hundred dollars. This can be combined with seeing the sunset on the way back. If you are traveling alone try to find some other people to share the mototaxi and save money. If you go to Caño Cristales you don't really need to see Caño de Piedras in addition.

El Café de Lithos

It is a very special place where loud music is forbidden and all people is welcome. Locals use to interact with tourists (same low prices for everyone) and share food that you can't find in any other place in town: causa peruana, waffles, desserts, vegan and vegetarian food. Also, a variety of coffees, teas and infusions. You should try gyarapo frappe and citric lemonade, two of their signatures beverages.

Tue-Sun 4-10:30PM

Jardín Botánico

botanic garden

This is a private place in a near village (La Esperanza, 18 km from Down Town) for the recovery and the conservation of native plants and animals. The Garden is a 350 ha farm, with 150 hectares recognized as a Civil Society Natural Reservation. It is possible to travel around the garden in horses or in some paths by foot. There is a Garden office in the town where some services are offered (tourism guidance, transportation, basic information about the region).

Pan Unicrema

Well hidden in a town where things are hard to hide, this is the busiest, or at least has the appearance of the busiest, panadería in town (it's possible the locals just like to hang out here and drink coffee).

COP$500-2,500

El Raudal

This is a rapid from the Guayabero River, formed among the walls of ancient rocks. After Cristales, this is the most visited place in the region and is administrated by the local community that lives there. The place is a kind of open-air archaeological museum with ancient petrogliphs visible during summer time. To travel there, you can contact ECOAMEN, the communal tourist organization.

Finca Cristalitos

Although Caño Cristales is the main attraction in town, this is not the only river with colours. Cristalitos is a Cristales afluent, smaller but equally beautiful. Unlike Cristales, there is a camping site and a little farm where to buy local food. By contacting Jardín Botánico it is possible to book a night or to plan a visit there. Cristalitos is higher up on the mountain and therefore includes a nice view over the region.

La Casa del Pan

There are plenty of panaderías in town, but this is one of the friendliest, and pretty conveniently located. And they won't randomly try to gouge you on soda prices!

COP$500-2,500

Madrevieja del Carmen

Madreviejas are a kind of paleo-rivers or a paleochannel: a remnant of an inactive river or stream channel that has been either filled or buried by younger sediment. In this case, the Madrevieja del Carmen is an older branch of Guayabero River, surrounded by archaeological remnants and inhabited by endangered Amazonian species of birds, mammals, insects and trees. It is in a farm that is embraced in agroecological experiments, restoration of native forest and aimed to educate peasants in new forms of production. The Madrevieja is 17 km from downtown and it is possible to get there by car, moto or by boat. By contacting Jardín Botánico it is possible to book a night or to plan a visit there.

Mona's Empanadas

As dusk sets in, temporary food stalls sprout out in the area next to the football ground. One of the more popular stands is Mona's - freshly rolled and fried hot empanadas for just 500COP a piece. Be prepared to patiently wait if it's crowded, which always seems to be the case. Try the piña salsa and the salsa blanca (tartare).

COP$500/empañada

Punto Verde

Seemingly scornful of customers, this spot eschews any sort of signage (you'll know it because everything is white), and the lady will try to scare you off with tales of how long it will take to prepare the meal. Intrepid traveler, forge ahead! The portions are large and tasty, with more meat on your plate than you'll get anywhere else. The park provides a nice atmosphere at night, too, with Bar Papparazzi providing the background music.

COP$7,000-10,000

Restaurante Brisas del Guayabero

A friendly option with probably the best value in town for a restaurant. Hearty soups and decent meats. Again, it's nice to be on the park at night.

COP$6,000-8,000

Restaurante el Llanero

Pretty well hidden from tourists on Calle 7 is the pueblo's friendliest restaurant by far, run by a lovely lady who likes to chat with travelers. Even the patrons seem more friendly here. Food is hearty, simple, and tasty.

COP$7,000-11,000

Restaurante la Turista

It's not clear whether the name is a cynical ploy or just an ironic misnomer, but this place always has the same locals hanging out. While locals hanging out is usually a good sign, this restaurant suffers a bit from the fact that they overcharge tourists (go figure). The food is above average, though.

COP$8,000-12,000

Restaurante y Heladería Fondo Azul

The one ice cream place in town! If only this were located on the park, it would be a gold mine, but now that you know where it is, go get your fingers sticky.

COP$3,500-8,000