Kanazawa

Choi Nomi Dining Taka

ちょい呑みダイニング貴

An excellent and affordable Izakaya restaurant run and owned by a former sumo wrestler. Enjoy local sakes, along with a range of Japanese dishes, including a specialty dish, "Nodoguro ramen", which features a Blackthroat Seaperch fish, as well as menma (boiled bamboo) pieces, and half an egg. English menus are available, however pricing and the amount of food you get seems to contradict what's on the Japanese menu, with some of the entries; try to fake your way through it, if you want the full experience!

Daily 14:00-23:30·¥300-1000

Coil

金沢手巻き寿司 COIL（コイル）

Fancy, modernistic temaki (sushi hand roll) restaurant, with a DIY attitude. Pick your desired fillings, follow your own tea making ceremony, and roll your own sushi to your liking! Has vegan/vegetarian friendly options, as well as English menus.

Daily 11:00-21:30·¥1500-2000

Kinjohro

金城楼

A good ryotei which uses seasonal local ingredients, with dining rooms in traditional Japanese architecture. Reservations recommended. Expensive, but cheaper than similar establishments in Tokyo and Kyoto.

Closed · opens 11 am·¥10,000

Ōmichō market

Ōmichō-ichiba or 近江町市場

This is a relatively large covered market housing many shops and stalls selling fish, vegetables, fruits and meat. According to its website, it has been Kanazawa's largest fresh food market since the Edo Period. The market also houses many restaurants (both on the ground floor and on the first floor) and small colourful eateries where one can eat fresh local seafood, including specialties such as crab, Noto Peninsula oysters and other shellfish. There are also several sushi restaurants and one kaiten sushi place (where sushi are presented on a conveyor belt). There are many tourists, but this remains an active market where locals shop for food and other household items (such as clothing, kitchen utensils and flowers). There is a large pharmacy in the basement.

09:30-17:00 (although some shops have longer hours)

Chochinya

鳥珍や

Well worth a visit to try the fantastic tebasaki (crispy chicken wings), order at least 3 per person! The young owners speak limited English but have an English menu available. They have over 20 brands of shochu to choose from and a selection of local sake. There is a charge of ¥262 for the small appetizer you will be served when you sit down. Always packed out at the weekends.

Closed · opens 5 pm

Dai-Nana Gyōza

第七餃子

A restaurant that specialises in gyoza. Counter seating as well as private rooms upstairs that are available for hire. The gyoza, known as "white gyoza", are famous in the region, and very unlike normal gyoza. Part of a small but insanely popular chain of "white gyoza" (named after the founder, a Chinese man named Hak (白), or "white". Ten gyoza are ¥360. Go early to get a seat - it's very popular with students and young salarymen.

Gyoza-no-Ōshō

餃子の王将

Serving cheap Chinese food in a brightly-lit and often smoky environment. Chinese dumpling (gyoza) are 6 for ¥180, large rice will set you back ¥200 and mains are in the ¥500-600 range. Look for the gaudy yellow, red and white sign near the bus stop. All Osho restaurants have a bilingual (English-Japanese) menu.

Hacchouya

八兆屋

The best way to describe this place is a "refined" izakaya. The fare here is a modern twist on izakaya food. The quality of the food is unbelievable for the price. It has sunken seating by the open kitchen or private tatami style rooms and very cosy. Not much English is spoken but you manage to get your message across. Be adventurous, point to the menu and you can't go wrong. Staff are very friendly and efficient.

Hirosaka-Tei

ヒロサカ亭

Rustic style izakaya with an open kitchen, there is an emphasis on local seafood so the tempura selection (¥1,300) and sashimi of the day platter (¥1,500) are good choices to begin with. The homemade ginger ale has quite a kick and goes well with the fish dishes. Japanese menu but English is spoken by the owner.

Closed · opens 5:30 pm

Le Mars

ルマルス

Husband and wife team serving up tasty Belgian inspired food in a relaxed atmosphere. Good range of European beers available. Tucked away down a side street near the Excel Hotel.

11:30-14:00 & 18:00-22:30, closed Wed

Osteria Albero

Serving up great Italian food in a quiet corner of town. The pasta is handmade while you wait (around ¥1500 per dish) and the focaccia is superb and a bargain at ¥250. Menu in Japanese and Italian.

Closed · opens 6 pm

Sakanaya

魚菜屋

Counter seating only, this little joint is always packed with locals looking for a quick serve of cheap seafood. Try the kaisen tonkomori-don (海鮮とんこ盛丼, ¥980), a bowl of rice topped with all sorts of raw seafood goodies.

Spice Box

The only authentic Indian and Sri Lankan restaurant downtown. Based on the tapas concept dishes start at ¥300. Vegetarian options are available along with an English menu. Ask the ever smiling manager if you have special requests. No credit cards accepted.

Mon-Sat 18:30-03:00, Sun 18:00-23:59

Sushi Ippei

鮨一平

Tucked down a side street this family run restaurant offers the chance to try authentic sushi without breaking the bank. Prices start at ¥100, expect to pay around ¥3000 for a good feed. English menu and limited English spoken by the beaming kimono-clad okamisan.

18:00-01:00, closed Sun and national holidays

Takeshi

たけし

Modern Japanese cuisine in stylish surroundings. The color yellow is a major theme and even the chef's phone is yellow! Courses start at ¥5250 per person for 8 dishes, not including drinks. Reservations essential.

17:00-23:00, closed Sun

The Cottage

Run by the very friendly Tony and Momo. Serving up homestyle cooking with plenty of conversation thrown in. A cozy restaurant popular with resident foreigners and tourists.

Tsubajin

つば甚

Open for lunch and dinner, reservations required. Founded in 1752, and the première Japanese dining experience in Kanazawa, Tsubajin has hosted daimyo, members of the Imperial Family, government ministers, and others who can afford the hospitality of this 250-year-old ryotei - dinners start at ¥20,000 and rise into the upper stratosphere. A mere ¥9,000 will allow you to taste their lunch set menu. The current building dates from the early Taisho period (1912-1925), and is designed in the finest Kanazawa style.

Ume No Hana

梅の花

For a true Japanese dining experience that is hard to beat this place will make even ex-pat lifers in Japan misty eyed. Beautiful landscaped gardens; immaculate tatami rooms with each room having themed pottery; a mind bending array of tofu dishes and phenomenal service. Kaiseki lunches start at ¥1,500 while dinner starts at ¥3,500 per person. Allow plenty of time to savour the experience as dish after dish will be brought to you. A nice discrete touch is that instead of a check you will be given a keyring to handover when you leave. Ensuring only the bill payer sees the total! Reservations essential even at lunch time. Away from the main sights so a taxi is the easiest way to get there. You will never look at tofu in the same way again!

11:00-14:30 & 17:00-21:00 daily

Yama-boshi

山ぼうし

Stop for soba after a visit to Yuwaku onsen in this traditional Japanese-style house.

11:30-14:45, closed Wed Thu·¥800 and up