Kanazawa

21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art

金沢21世紀美術館

Located across from Kenroku-en, this modern marvel offers a fascinating juxtaposition to the traditional splendour of Kanazawa. Even if you don't enter the permanent or temporary exhibitions, the building itself is worth a look and there are usually some free exhibits inside. Some of the permanent collection can be seen for free. These include pieces by Jan Fabvre (an impressive statute on the roof of the building), the famous "swimming pool" by Leandro Erlich in the main courtyard inside the building as well as playful pieces in the garden surrounding the museum. Don't miss the cafe!

Exhibition Zone 10:00 - 18:00, Public Zone 09:00 - 22:00

Choi Nomi Dining Taka

ちょい呑みダイニング貴

An excellent and affordable Izakaya restaurant run and owned by a former sumo wrestler. Enjoy local sakes, along with a range of Japanese dishes, including a specialty dish, "Nodoguro ramen", which features a Blackthroat Seaperch fish, as well as menma (boiled bamboo) pieces, and half an egg. English menus are available, however pricing and the amount of food you get seems to contradict what's on the Japanese menu, with some of the entries; try to fake your way through it, if you want the full experience!

Daily 14:00-23:30·¥300-1000

Coil

金沢手巻き寿司 COIL（コイル）

Fancy, modernistic temaki (sushi hand roll) restaurant, with a DIY attitude. Pick your desired fillings, follow your own tea making ceremony, and roll your own sushi to your liking! Has vegan/vegetarian friendly options, as well as English menus.

Daily 11:00-21:30·¥1500-2000

D.T. Suzuki Museum

鈴木大拙館

This small museum commemorates the life and works of Suzuki Daisetz Teitaro, a prominent Buddhist philosopher whose books were instrumental in spreading interest in Zen Buddhism in the West. The museum is organized around three areas: a first room exhibiting the writings and calligraphy of D.T. Suzuki, as well as pictures and explanations about his work and life; a second room where his books can be consulted and more can be learned about his writings. The third area is perhaps the most attractive part of the museum, as it is a contemplative space where visitors are invited to meditate and reflect while admiring the beautiful architecture and the surrounding woods. Even those not attracted to Buddhism or oriental philosophies may find the place worth a visit to enjoy the building's architecture.

Closed · opens 9:30 am·¥300

Hakuza

箔座

A well-known purveyor of all things covered or decorated with gold leaf, this shop is worth a visit just to see the stunning platinum and gold leafed warehouse inside.

09:30-18:00 daily

Higashi-Chayagai

ひがし茶屋街

Across the Asano River, Kanazawa's most famous geisha district. Many of the tall narrow houses are still used as high-class entertainment, but the Shima House (¥400) is open for all to see, and is well worth the entry fee for a chance to experience its refined and elegant atmosphere. Quite a few of the buildings have been converted into speciality shops and teahouses (of the non-geisha variety), so poke around freely and don't miss out on a cup of tea and a Japanese sweet (¥500-1000). Behind this area is a temple district, and the roads between the main road and the mountain are a twisting labyrinth of narrow lanes perfect for exploring on foot.

Ishikawa Museum of Modern Literature

石川近代文学館

09:30-17:00 (last entry at 16:30). Housed in the Meiji-era brick building of the former Fourth High School (preparatory schools for the Imperial Universities), the fore-runner of Kanazawa University, it houses displays relating to famous local (generally) authors from the Meiji to pre-war period. Probably only of interest to students of Japanese literature rather than casual tourists, as many of the displays are original copies of books or manuscripts, written in Japanese. ¥400.

Ishikawa Prefectural Museum

石川県立歴史博物館

Entry ¥250 (more when special exhibitions are held). 09:00-17:00 (last entry at 16:30). Housed in three long brick buildings, restored armouries from the time when the area was used by the Imperial Japanese Army, it features a chronological display of local history in a modern and well-laid-out setting. There is also an area for hands-on history, where you can try on various outfits, including samurai armour. As with most tourist sites in Kanazawa, an English-language pamphlet is available.

Ishikawa Prefectural Museum of Art

石川県立美術館

This is a pleasant museum showcasing works by local artists hailing from Isihikawa prefecture. There are six galleries showing parts of the collection, which is rotated through the year. Many of the pieces come from the collection of the Maeda lords. The building provides nice views on the surrounding woods.

09:30―18:00 (last admission 17:30)·¥360

Ishikawa Prefectural Museum of Traditional Arts and Crafts

石川県立伝統産業工芸館

A craft museum that displays 36 types of traditional arts and crafts cultivated by the people who lived in Ishikawa. The exhibits are grouped by type and well-displayed.

Daily 09:00-17:00 (last entry at 16:30); closed Apr-Nov: 3rd Thu of the month; Dec-Mar: Thu, Year-end and New Year·¥250, ¥200 for seniors, and ¥100 for children under 17. Group rates are available

Kanazawa Castle

金沢城

At the center of Kanazawa is the former site of Kanazawa Castle. It has been vacated by the national university, which took over the site once used by the Ninth Division of the Imperial Army, the castle is public space now for the first time in its more than 400 years of history. The imposing Ishikawa Gate (石川門), so named as it faced the Ishikawa district, was once a side entrance to the castle grounds, but after several fires and man-made destruction, it is one of the few original buildings left on the site, the other being the Sanjikken Nagaya (三十間長屋) storehouse near the top. However the long Gojikken Nagaya (五十間長屋) that once guarded the castle palace has been rebuilt according to traditional methods, and is open to the public.

¥320

Kanazawa Shinise Memorial Hall (Old Merchant House)

金沢市老舗記念館

The Old Merchant House was Kanazawa's leading Chinese medicine shop in Minami-machi during the 18th century. The shop was established in 1759 and provided medicine for the feudal leaders. The merchant's family was given high status by the elders of the town. The shop was instrumental in maintaining the elegance of the tea ceremony, flower arrangement, and haiku during the time period in which it was open. The shop has a bridal exhibit on the second floor with examples of bridal gifts and a large flower arrangement made entirely out of sugar.

Kazuemachi

主計町

A small but very nice area of geisha houses along the riverbank across from Higashiyama.

Kenroku-en Garden

兼六園

The most famous sight in Kanazawa, the Garden of Six Attributes is considered one of Japan's Top 3 gardens. Once the outer pleasure gardens of the Maeda Lords, it gradually expanded to take over the entire block. While not completed in its final form until the waning years of the Edo Shogunate, it still represents one of the peaks of Japanese strolling garden design. The way in which water is piped from many kilometres upstream to fill its streams and ponds before going on to fill the castle moats is one of the great engineering feats of the Edo period. In part of the grounds, and with a steep separate ¥700 entrance fee, is the Seisonkaku Villa, built by a Maeda lord for his mother. Only part of it remains, but is a rare example of existing daimyo palace architecture. The upper floor, with its bright blues and reds, is in distinct contrast to the muted earth tones of Kyoto style. During cherry blossom season, entry to the park is free and it's open and lit up until 21:00.

Daily 07:00-18:00 in summer, 08:00-17:00 in winter (mid-October to end of February)·¥320 (free on Culture Day, Nov 3rd), and ¥100 for children age 6-17; ¥500 when combined with a ticket to one of several nearby museums.

Kinjohro

金城楼

A good ryotei which uses seasonal local ingredients, with dining rooms in traditional Japanese architecture. Reservations recommended. Expensive, but cheaper than similar establishments in Tokyo and Kyoto.

Closed · opens 11 am·¥10,000

Machrihanish

マクリハニッシュ

The best selection of single malts in Kanazawa, bar none. The English-speaking owner spent several years working at the Royal and Ancient Golf Club of St. Andrews and has visited every distillery in Scotland! If whisky is your thing this is the place to visit. Draft Kilkenny is ¥900 a pint, cocktails start at ¥750, and the vast whisky selection kicks off at ¥700. The fish and chips is recommended.

Mon-Sat 18:30-02:00

Nagamachi Samurai District

Nagamachi Buke Yashiki or 長町武家屋敷

Towards the coast from Oyama Shrine, this is an area of a few streets where considerable effort has been expended in order to recreate the feel of the samurai housing areas. The fact that almost none of the actual samurai houses remain does little to daunt the enthusiasm of the tourists. While historically dubious, it is a pleasant area to stroll, and one of the best of the remaining samurai districts in Japan. In Nagamachi, the Nomura House is open to the public (¥500), and boasts a small but exquisite garden. A short walk from there the city has relocated and restored two ashigaru (足軽: the lowest rank of samurai) houses that are open for free, and provide a lovely place to rest and enjoy the peace of a traditional Japanese house. Towards the Asano River to the north, there are a couple more samurai houses, not preserved or set aside as museum pieces, but actually lived in (and not open to the public).

Ninja Temple

妙立寺 Myōryu-ji

The tour guides insist there is no connection between the 'Ninja Temple' and actual ninja assassins. But with 23 rooms and 29 staircases, an impressive array of trapdoors and hidden rooms, and a sepukku (ritual suicide) chamber, it is easy to see why people would make that assumption. Visitors cannot enter the temple except through the tours, so call ahead to book a tour. The tour is conducted in Japanese, but they give travelers a folder with English translations. Local lore has it that there was an underground tunnel from the castle to the temple, to allow the Maeda lords an escape route in case of attack. However, no documentary proof of this has been found, and, like the ninjas, it merely adds to the myths of the place. The staff have a well-deserved reputation (amongst Japanese and foreigners) for being rude and unhelpful. ¥1,200 for adults and ¥700 for primary school pupils, and you're supposed to make a reservation in advance, although they can usually squeeze you in if there's space and you don't mind waiting for your tour to begin. The hour-long tour is well worth the price.

Nishi-Chayagai

にし茶屋街

The "west" to Higashi's "east", this is another district of restored geisha houses. This is considerably smaller (and quieter) than Higashi, with effectively just a single street, and aside from the (free) information center it's not possible to formally visit any of the houses. One can however enter the several shops that dot the street and appreciate the inside of these beautiful houses.

Oyama Shrine

尾山神社

Built in the early Meiji period to honor the founding father of the Kaga Domain, Maeda Toshiie. It is notable for a unique gate with stained-glass windows that is a fusion of Japanese and Western architecture. The back gate to the shrine is also one of the few remaining parts of the original castle: a gate from the palace compound that escaped destruction when it was moved to the shrine. "Oyama" was the original name for the hill on which Kanazawa Castle was built.

Shinmeiguu Shrine

神明宮

This shrine is famous for the more than 900-year-old Zelkova tree (keyaki) in its grounds. The shrine used to be on the banks of the Sai River, before land was reclaimed, and the tree was used as an anchor point for boats. Iron bars driven into the trunk so that boat hooks could be attached are still visible half-way up the tree. The rest of the grounds are used for parking and you will be kept at a safe distance from the tree by 3 fences: one bamboo, one steel and of course one made of concrete!

Tentoku-in

天徳院

The largest temple in Kanazawa during the Edo period, it stood at the eastern end of the city. It was built to house the spirit of Tama-hime (珠姫: the Princess Tama), the wife of Maeda Toshitsune (the third Maeda lord). She was born in 1599 as the granddaughter of Tokugawa Ieyasu, the founder of the Tokugawa Shogunate, and the daughter of the second Shogun, Hidetada. It was a political marriage: the Tokugawa were worried about a possible attack from the powerful Maeda, historically supporters of the Toyotomi clan. Toshitsune sent his mother to Edo as a hostage, and in return received the Shogun's daughter in marriage. She was three years old at the time (though the actual marriage was carried out when she was 14), and her arrival in Kanazawa is commemorated each year in the Kaga Hyakumangoku Parade. She died at age 24.

Ōmichō market

Ōmichō-ichiba or 近江町市場

This is a relatively large covered market housing many shops and stalls selling fish, vegetables, fruits and meat. According to its website, it has been Kanazawa's largest fresh food market since the Edo Period. The market also houses many restaurants (both on the ground floor and on the first floor) and small colourful eateries where one can eat fresh local seafood, including specialties such as crab, Noto Peninsula oysters and other shellfish. There are also several sushi restaurants and one kaiten sushi place (where sushi are presented on a conveyor belt). There are many tourists, but this remains an active market where locals shop for food and other household items (such as clothing, kitchen utensils and flowers). There is a large pharmacy in the basement.

09:30-17:00 (although some shops have longer hours)

Asanogawa Riverside Garden Party

A delightful place for a stroll among the blossoming cherry trees. This event always draws a large crowd who come to watch traditional displays on an elevated stage built over the river. There are enchanting, graceful performances of singing and dancing by local geisha and maiko from Higashi Chaya-Machi district. Keep an eye out for the water jugglery "Mizu-gei" performance.

2nd Sat and Sun of April

Belsel Building

For those interested in Japanese "otaku" culture, the Belsel building is the place to go in Kanazawa. This building houses several stores dedicated to selling products such as anime/manga, figures, and doujin works. In addition, the first floor is full of fashion stores specializing in goth, punk, lolita, and others.

Chochinya

鳥珍や

Well worth a visit to try the fantastic tebasaki (crispy chicken wings), order at least 3 per person! The young owners speak limited English but have an English menu available. They have over 20 brands of shochu to choose from and a selection of local sake. There is a charge of ¥262 for the small appetizer you will be served when you sit down. Always packed out at the weekends.

Closed · opens 5 pm

Dai-Nana Gyōza

第七餃子

A restaurant that specialises in gyoza. Counter seating as well as private rooms upstairs that are available for hire. The gyoza, known as "white gyoza", are famous in the region, and very unlike normal gyoza. Part of a small but insanely popular chain of "white gyoza" (named after the founder, a Chinese man named Hak (白), or "white". Ten gyoza are ¥360. Go early to get a seat - it's very popular with students and young salarymen.

Daijōji Temple

大乗寺

Daijōji Temple is an old and active Zen Buddhist Temple set away from traffic on a hillside. The temple in its current location dates from 1697. Old trees shade dense moss. There is a large bell hanging under the gate along the path which visitors may ring. Strikingly loud at first, the sound fades to accentuate the tranquillity. There are free early-early-morning pray-with-the-Zen-monks sessions for those so inclined, be prepared to join in with sweeping and cleaning afterwards. The whole place is extremely "wabi-sabi", spiritually mellow.

Fireworks displays

Every summer, locals are drawn to the river side to watch impressive fireworks displays (free of charge). Special buses ferry people from the station to the river bank and back. On a nice evening, this is certainly worth the effort. It is also a good opportunity to meet and speak with locals. Dates vary; ask for information at the Kanazawa Tourist Information Lobby in the station.

Gyoza-no-Ōshō

餃子の王将

Serving cheap Chinese food in a brightly-lit and often smoky environment. Chinese dumpling (gyoza) are 6 for ¥180, large rice will set you back ¥200 and mains are in the ¥500-600 range. Look for the gaudy yellow, red and white sign near the bus stop. All Osho restaurants have a bilingual (English-Japanese) menu.